so I searched for a better controller. I finally came to the conclusion I needed to design my own
custom built R/C throttle box. This is how I went about it.
The airplane controller in my left hand. Thumb on the throttle stick.
If you are switching cars and using your right hand to set turnouts or uncouple manually you can't reach the other stick to reverse direction.
The NCE Power Pro Cab06 is great but you still can't reach the reverse button with one handed operation.
The NCE power Pro is also great and the reverse button can easily be reached if you use your right hand for
uncoupling or throwing turnouts, but if you switch hands again this will be difficult.
I searched the net for a company that sells project boxes and came up with these VM-Seires Project boxes.
You can order the rubber boots for a better grip. They come in the three colors shown.
This is the Vm-24. I'm using my hand for size comparison. This is with the boot off.
VM-24 with boot on.
VM-35 without boot.
VM-35 with boot.
VM-36 without boot.
VM-36 with boot.
All three sizes with the rubber boot cover on.
They also come in two variations. The one's I got have a 9 volt battery compartment. They also come with a two AA battery compartment.
To start with I needed a pc board to hold the components. I used a perf board to get the shape of the area. Once I have the components in their final place
I will etch a circuit board for easier installation
I needed some small N.O. switches for the binding circuit. An old TV with front push buttons severed the purpose well. /P>
I mounted the switch on two wire wrap posts soldered into the perf board. Drilled a hole in the end and glued in a
piece of plastic tubing. A piece of plastic rod and a small pad glued on the end to make contact with the button.
Front panle with plunger installed.
I didn't like the looks of the plastic plunger so I made one out of brass.
Assembled and installed. Much better.
These are the seperate parts for making a custom reversing switch. Brass bar with
channel milled in, pc board, two micro switches, and a activation lever.
The two micro switches and the back side of the pc board with 8 #61 holes.
Switches mounted in board.
Soldered and mounted in body of reverse switch.
Opposite side showing slot for operating lever.
Operating lever temporality in slot.
Approximate location of custom lever.
Custom lever screwed down with two 0-80 screws.
Both top and bottom covers cut out to clear lever and lever shortened.
Final postion without rubber boot.
With rubber boot.
I didn't like the nub of brass sticking out the side. I thought a nice looking bat style lever would look better.
I found that in these mini bat lever toggle switches. Just pry apart and the parts fall out.