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| I decided to add a brass subframe to set the motor and gear box in. Here I'm cutting out the inside with my trusty fret saw and a very thin jewelers blade. |
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| The finished cut. If you look at the four corners you'll see I drilled holes there. I then cut from hole to hole until I had theinside cut out. The holes help in turning the saw 90° for the next cut. |
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| The inside was filed to the lines and here I'm doing a trial fit of the gear tower/motor. Looks good. |
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| Looks good on the frame too. I realized I was going to need a way to keep the sub-frame aligned if it ever needs to be taken off for some reason. |
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| Then I drilled two holes through the sub-frame and into the frame for 1/16" alignment pins. |
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| A little bit of Locite© 262 and let it set over night. The next day the pins were filed down flat to the top surface of the sub-frame. |
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| Pieces of brass angle will keep the gear-tower/motor in place. |
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| Two pieces cut to length and placed on either side of the gear-tower/motor. |
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| Drilling the holes into the side of the gear tower. They needed to be square, so I used a precision block and held the wheels against the block while the frame held it up on the vise. Two 0-80 holes on both sides. |
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| I used the contacts out of an ice cube relay. They have gold or silver plated contacts. Works great on model railroad wheels. |
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| Two small brass blocks with 0-80 screw holes were soldered to a piece of circuit board. The contacts were screwed into the blocks to make changing them in the future easier if they need changing. |
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| Locating the two boards so I can put 0-80 screw holes in the sub-frame to hold the contacts in place. |
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| The electrical pickups mounted and wires attached, ready for it's maiden voyage. The one pickups corner can be seen under the motor. |
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| And here is the switcher with the body mounted on the frame ready for final details. That will come later. |
Now that the drive is finished I'm sure many would like to see it actually run. Well I made a VIDEO.