Diesel Dockside Switcher
Older projects I started and want to see finished
|I don't have any idea when I started this project. It had to be many years since Cary is no longer in
business. Apparently Bowser bought them out.
Go here to read up on the history of
Cary Locomotive Works. I'm going to change from the rubber band drive to a gear drive using some left over
Hobbytown of Boston drives. Another
company no longer in business.
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View of the Atheran Hustler truck and Cary body plus the rubber band drive.
Chassis and wheels taken apart.
Another parts picture plus the gearing I'd like to use from the Hobbytown drive.
These set of wheels are nickel plated. I had them in my wheel scrap box.
The gears are from a Hobby Town
drive and the axles are .092" drill rod. Just
the right od for the wheel and gear id's. The brass tubing is used to space the
wheels. The larger is used to set the gear in the middle of the axle.
The shorter one is used to space the wheel the correct distance in
from the end.
This view shows using the longer brass tube to position the gear
before using Locite© 290 Thread Locker© to hold the gear on the
shaft. The gears and wheels were a nice sliding fit on the shafts.
That's the reason to use a locking compound.
Once the locking compound had set up on the gear the wheel was spaced using the shorter tube.
The tube on the axle.
Side view of the tube on the axle.
Locking compound was then applied on the one set of wheels and left to set over night.
Once the left side wheels had set up I added the right side wheels and
set the proper gauge. One thing I failed to document
was the fact that I
needed to add an insulator bushing on the right set of wheels.
In this view you can see the wheels toward the top of the picture have
the insulating bushing on. I had to drill out the wheel
to fit the plastic
bushing and then the bushing to fit the axle. No locking compound was
added. The plastic holds the wheel good enough. Then a
shaft was cut and the second set of gears were temporarily placed on
them to check for height off of the bottom.
The bottom was milled to about .070" thickness at it's thinnest point.
A piece of 3/16" thick brass plate was machined to fit into the bottom and secured with two 4-40 screws.
Next two 1/16" dia. holes were drilled through the bottom and the brass plate for
locating pins. This helps to realign the gears
after disassembly for maintenance.
12/2/11 : I've run into a gearing problem. The Hobbytown gears I wanted to use will not work.
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